Let your produce shine in season

This issue we hear from Julio Azzarello, President of the Australian Culinary Federation for NSW, ACT and Regions. Julio has more than 30 years’ experience in the hospitality industry, including 13 years as executive chef of multi-outlet hotels and restaurant and over three years of lecturing at Le Cordon Bleu Sydney.

The last few months have seen some price hikes along with shortages of some staple ingredients such as mushrooms, zucchini and cucumber. But while COVID-19 has impacted somewhat on the supply chain, thankfully the effect has not been as bad as was feared. 

In light of the current situation, it’s beneficial to make sure that you’re updating your menu seasonally so you can take advantage of the great local produce that is still available. Produce is always at its best when it’s season, but many of us tend to think about menus in isolation, rather than within the context of the time of year. 

Right now, for example, we should all be looking at using things that grow underground – root vegetables, such as beetroots, carrots and turnips. There is some amazing celeriac available right now. The climate is just right, with warm days and cold nights.

COVID has actually helped us become more aware of the importance of doing more with less. When I was growing up, you knew summer meant cherries and mangoes would be available and watermelon would be at its peak – but these days we are so hungry for ingredients 24/7 that we make do with inferior hybrids and a heap of imported product.

But now that supply has been affected, we are looking at our own backyard more as opposed to ordering overseas product, and that’s actually a good thing. It’s reminded us that the produce we have in this country is pretty damn good and that the rest of the world wants it. And ordinarily we give it to the rest of the world, but this time around we’ve managed to keep some for ourselves.

There’s a particular orange around at the moment which has a distinctive brown skin, and for the first four years of this product’s existence we never got to see it because it all went to China. Now it’s available in the local marketplace and chefs are discovering it’s a great product. 

It’s only right that we should be reaping the rewards of the produce that’s grown in our own country. Why use English spinach when you can get silverbeet with its beautiful leaves, which is hardier?

So think local, and think seasonal. We often think of citrus as a summer fruit, but it’s actually a winter one: the best citrus comes out when it’s cold. So oranges and lemons have been at their peak for a while now. 

It’s the same with all these beautiful rainbow-charred purple and green kale – they’re available throughout the year but they’re at their peak in winter. 

Another one of my catchcries when it comes to seasonal produce is you should look at the yield as opposed to the price. Beetroot is one of the best examples: you might pay $3.50 for a bunch of beetroot with five little bulbs on the end, but you need to look closer: you can make a tart with the stalk, you can blanch the leaves and add them to a dish – if you only want to use the bulbs, you’d be better off buying beetroot in a tin. In other words, buy for purpose, maximise yield, and let your produce shine in season.

JULIO AZZARELLO
NSW, ACT and Regions Chapter President