The sensational science of fat
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Adam Moore
While the basic tastes - sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami - are well-established, oleogustus is gaining recognition as the sixth taste. Derived from the Latin words for "oil" and "taste", oleogustus refers to the distinct flavour profile of fatty acids. Unlike the other tastes which are typically pleasing, the raw taste of fat can be perceived as unpleasant in isolation. But when skillfully incorporated into dishes, fat transforms into a carrier of flavour, richness, and texture.
Fats come in various forms, each with its own characteristics. Animal or fish fats such as butter, lard, and tallow impart a depth of flavour that is both comforting and luxurious. Vegetable or plant-based fats, including olive oil, coconut oil, and avocado oil, offer a spectrum of flavours from fruity to nutty to grassy. The versatility of fats allows chefs to experiment with different methods of incorporation, creating layers of complexity in their dishes.
The chemistry of fats
The chemical structure of fats plays a crucial role in their application. Animal fats are primarily composed of saturated fatty acids which are solid at room temperature and provide a stable structure for cooking. These fats, such as tallow and lard, are ideal for high-heat applications like frying and roasting. In contrast, vegetable or plant-based fats are rich in unsaturated fatty acids which are liquid at room temperature. Olive oil, for instance, contains monounsaturated fats that lend a smooth, silky texture to dressings and sauces. The presence of polyunsaturated fats in oils like sunflower and flaxseed adds a delicate, nutty flavour, making them suitable for drizzling over dishes or incorporating into emulsions.
Techniques for fat incorporation
Confit: This ancient technique involves cooking ingredients slowly in fat at a low temperature. Duck confit, for instance, yields succulent meat with a rich, velvety texture. The fat not only preserves the meat but also infuses it with flavour.
Emulsified: Emulsification, the process of blending fat with water-based ingredients, produces luxurious sauces and dressings. Mayonnaise and hollandaise sauce are classic examples where the creamy texture and rich flavour come from the emulsified fat.
Direct addition: Fat can be added directly to dishes for immediate impact. A drizzle of high-quality olive oil over a tomato salad elevates the Flavours, adding a fruity, peppery note that enhances the freshness of the tomatoes.
Compound butter: Infusing butter with herbs, spices or other flavourings creates a compound butter that can be used to finish dishes. An example is a tomahawk steak served with a coffee-whiskey compound butter, where the smoky, rich fat marries with the robust flavours of the steak
“Fat plays a crucial role by acting as a barrier that prevents meat from drying out while also absorbing and redistributing flavours”
Fat in dry aging
One of the most sophisticated applications of fat is in the dry aging of meat. During the dry aging process, natural enzymes and microbes break down the muscle fibres, resulting in a more tender and flavourful product. Fat plays a crucial role here by acting as a barrier that prevents the meat from drying out while also absorbing and redistributing flavours. The marbling of fat within the meat ensures an even distribution of these intensified flavours, enhancing the overall sensory experience.
The sensory experience
Fat contributes to more than just flavour; it also enhances the sensory experience of eating. Its ability to coat the mouth and linger on the palate prolongs the enjoyment of a dish. The mouthfeel of fat, whether it’s the creaminess of a butter sauce or the crispiness of tallow-fried potatoes, adds an essential dimension to the dining experience.
